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Tych0
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« Reply #15 on: August 21, 2008, 10:54:26 PM »



Um, generally, you DON'T want weak magazine springs.  They can cause malfunctions; The way that happens is that as the slide slides all the way to the rear, it rides over the top round in the magazine, which is pushed down into the magazine about halfway until the slide goes far enough to the rear to release the round (This is usually about the time the previous shell casing, having been extracted, hits the ejector on the lefthand side that kicks it out of the reach of the extractor).  Once the round is released from being pressed down by the slide as it goes to the rear, it is the job of the magazine spring to pop that round up into the feeding position (top of the magazine, against the feed lips) so that once the slide reaches its fully rearward position, and is closed by the recoil spring, that round will BE there in the feeding position so the slide can strip it off and chamber it.  As it does so, the next round comes up against the bottom of the slide and is held there, down away from the feed lips, until the slide cycles again.

The problem lies in that if that spring is NOT strong enough to pop that round up, the slide will cycle, NOT strip off the next round, and will close on an empty chamber.  And when that happens, you will hear the second loudest sound a firearm ever makes:  A "Click" when there should be a bang.

And in a defensive pistol, this is just one of several malfunctions that can get you killed.


I see what you ,mean, but I suppose "relatively" would be a key word here. I was trying out a Ruger SR9 last weekend and loaded the mags with a loading assist device. The springs were so stiff that I was sore after loading just three mags from having  to brace it firmly against my body. I didn't get a chance to try out the Glock 26 we also took to the range, but I was told that the springs on the Ruger's mags are unusually stiff.
FTR I really liked the feel and action on the SR9, but it seemed a little heavy on the recoil.
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« Reply #16 on: November 20, 2008, 01:46:38 PM »

Thread Necromancy!

Actually, I decided to not start a new thread about the same topic.

I'm purchasing a Glock 26 from a friend's dad (who owned a gun shop and is still a licensed dealer).

OD Green Handle
Tritium Sights (really cool)
3.5 lb trigger
extended slide release

$575 US + tax

A little more expensive because it was non-factory sights, and the aftermarket trigger and slide release.
Less expensive due to a good deal through the dealer.
No shipping.

Cost to buy it all separately blah blah ~$630 or so + shipping + tax

After some deliberation I decided on the 26 as opposed to the 19 or 17.

Factors leading to this were as follows:

Availability of the different models. (It just 'so happens' that I was able to scrounge up the money to buy it when the nobama people started their panic buying)
It is better for CC on my skinny persona compared to either the 19 or 17.
I'll be able to use a wider range of magazine sizes.


Also, I've been looking into reloading for it. Seems like a fun thing to do, but may wait until after my current venture.
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« Reply #17 on: November 20, 2008, 03:11:19 PM »

Yay another glockophile! Great pistol, great price.

On reloading: I assume you mean reloading spent brass, Now I have never reloaded, but I heard somewhere that reloading is not the best idea with a glock as the cartridge is not fully supported in the chamber, causing the spent brass to be a little weaker. I have no checksummed this, but it's something to look into before getting into reloading.
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« Reply #18 on: November 20, 2008, 04:49:44 PM »

Yeah I've heard that the Glock factory barrels are not good with soft point ammo or reloaded ammo.

I can get a replacement barrel for about $40 US which is made for both. The downside is the rifling isn't the same, so you may lose some of the muzzle velocity and such.

I was checking out reloading kits, and I guess it isn't too out of my price range to get one to mess around with ~$140 US, but I'll wait on that for awhile.
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« Reply #19 on: November 20, 2008, 07:38:12 PM »

The type of rifling in Glock barrels does not do well with Lead Bullets. All bullets you shoot in a GLock with a factory barrel should be jacketed.

That being said, the warnings about shooting reloads have nothing to do with the bullet type (as you can buy any bullet type you want for reloading) but with pressures. If you're going to shoot reloads in a glock make triple sure that you have done every step completely and correctly. It is suggested that you buy a scale and weigh each individual cartridge once you are done. If any are out of them standard range then yank the bullet and see if you put too much powder or not enough. Both can have negative effects on your firearm.

That being said, if you are careful and thorough shooting reloads in a Glock (or anything else for that matter) will be fine.
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« Reply #20 on: November 21, 2008, 12:29:16 AM »

The pressures are much more critical for .40 than they are for 9mm.  Generally, a Glock will digest just about any 9mm that's within spec, but of course reloads void your warranty.

The polygonal rifling doesn't like lead;  Lead tends to deposit near the chamber causing greater pressure issues, which can lead to a kB (kaBoom!).

Everything else said about reloading is spot-on.  Weigh your charges, not just measure, but weigh.  Then, weigh your cartridges.  If they're out of spec, pull the bullet and re-make the cartridge...do NOT just shrug and say 'it's good enough."

It isn't.

My recommendation for a defense gun is not to go with the 3.5 pound connector -- a little too light for threat management in my opinion.  However, if you are an experienced shooter and understand the risks of this trigger pull, then by all means, use the gun as it's tuned.

I don't use 3.5's on my pistols -- I use 5's on pretty much all my Glocks, my .45's have gunsmith-tuned 5-pound trigger pulls, and my other handguns...


...wait.  I don't HAVE any other handguns...

 Grin

Congrats on the purchase.  I'm envious about the OD green frame.  I want one.  Want!!

S
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« Reply #21 on: November 22, 2008, 01:49:57 AM »

Does anyone have a particular stance on the Compensator versions of the glock?

I like the idea of a compensator, however it could potentially blind you in a night time situation.
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« Reply #22 on: November 23, 2008, 05:32:32 AM »

Does anyone have a particular stance on the Compensator versions of the glock?

I like the idea of a compensator, however it could potentially blind you in a night time situation.

You answered your own question, in a confrontation you can destroy your night vision, ALSO! Try doing any of these drills with the compensator blowing shit into your face, ouch!

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/-ykmchwOgqE&rel=1" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/-ykmchwOgqE&rel=1</a>
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« Reply #23 on: November 23, 2008, 10:43:24 AM »

That's Gabe Suarez, the video is on Defending Sul (Sul is South in I forget what spinish derivative language).

A friend of mine introduced me to him, he is planning on taking a class or two from him.

Also, for what it is worth, I wouln't go with the comprensated Glock.

If you were going to buy a gun to shoot compettively, then yeah a long slide, compensated Glock would be great for that. But for self defense and the types of use we are envisioning having a gun for.... Get a plain old regular Glock. Add night sights if you want and definitely get a flashlight that'll mount to it.
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« Reply #24 on: November 23, 2008, 11:41:57 AM »

Different strokes for different folks.

I tend to gravitate more towards "factory" configurations for my pistols for two reasons:

1) I see customization as a "crutch", making the pistol easier to shoot for me, which means in my mind, my skills are deficient if I can't do the same thing with a factory gun.  Therefore, I work on my skills, not my hardware.  Because my skills are transferable, my hardware is not.  I never know if the gun I pick up or am handed to defend myself is going to be mine or not -- probability is it will be, but as a good Wog, knowing the factory hardware means the greatest amount of flexibility when/if someone asks me: "Hey, you can use a Glock 17, right?" -- you bet I can.  Stock.  Did it for years.  Gimme.

2) Any customizations you make to a pistol decrease its marketability and value.  Becuase you've customized it for YOU, not your customer -- so if you ever have to SELL your guns, it stands to reason that while you may GET more money for your customized pistol IF you find the right buyer who WANTS that combination of customizations, you will SELL IT SOONER if it's in stock configuration.   Again, because more people are comfortable in the factory config.

That being said, I have customized my own pistols a little bit, after much soul-searching and testing.  Here are the "customizations" I have made:

1) Night sights for all my Glocks.

I believe these should be factory from the get-go.  I used to be down on night sights, first and foremost because of the expense involved, and because I bought into the "straw man" argument that if it's too dark to see your sights, it's too dark to see your target clearly and you shouldn't be shooting in the first place.

Well, that argument went out the window very early on in my Bail career (In Security, either you were in a well-lighted area that was your property, or you were in the dark, completely.), from the cover of darkness, with my target area (with a cooperating agent near the target) having to watch to possibly shoot my target FROM that cover of darkness...

...and I realized Night Sights had their place, and it was for shooting from concealment.

This ESPECIALLY applies in Home Defense situations, where, once they have entered your home, you don't HAVE to identify yourself, or say "Halt" or any other damn thing, according to the law IN MY STATE (other locations may vary, so if it does, disregard this entire paragraph and move on to "Night sights are expensive...").  That person is there to rob or kill you or have his way with your children.  He has already identified himself as a forcible felon by his actions and he is IN YOUR HOUSE.  He has ALREADY picked the time and place of his criminal activity, and placed YOU at the significant disadvantage.  I consider this a completely appropriate situation to shoot him from the cover of darkness without saying a word.  As SK says, "You can justify it all to yourself -- LATER".

Night sights are expensive, but do nothing to change the exterior characteristics of the gun.  They are merely an aiming device that you can use when you are in darkness -- but it is ASSUMED you are a responsible enough shooter that you have VERIFIED your target before sending high-velocity base metal downrange.  With that ASSUMPTION, I highly recommend Night Sights if you can afford them, ESPECIALLY for home defense.


The other "customization" I've put on my Glocks is an extended slide release.  A FACTORY one.  You'll notice that many of the more modern "Practical-Tactical" Glocks have a slight bump on the factory slide release; That's a FACTORY "Extended Slide Release".

All I've done is retrofitted that slide release to my older Glocks.

In my mind, it's still a "Factory" part that does what I want it to do.

I'm big on Factory.  And it makes my Glocks faster for me to reload, because I got little-bitty stumpy fingers.  I also have the extended slide release on my .45.

But if you were to look at my Glock, there's no light, there are no radical "Customizations" -- just two minor ones that make all the difference to me, but that most folks wouldn't give a second glance to if they were buying it, or having to use it and were accustomed to the Stock Factory configuration.

Again, your mileage may vary.

My .45's are moderately customized, mostly because I learned the hard way that if you run 185 +P JHP Cor-Bons through a Colt Lightweight Commander, the factory grip safety will SPLIT YOUR SKIN at the web of the thumb after about 250 rounds.

OW.

Solution 1: Stop using those hot @#$%ing loads.
Solution 2: Get a "drop in" beavertail grip safety from Wilson Combat.

Well, as many of you may well know, I'm a BIG fan of Wilson Combat.  I use their magazines EXCLUSIVELY for personal defense, as I have tested about twenty (That is NOT an exaggeration) different brands/styles of 1911 magazines, from Chip McCormick to original Colt, to USGI contract, to knockoff, to Pachmayr, to a couple of other brands I can't remember off the top of my head right now -- and Wilson Combat has come out to be the most reliable and durable 1911 magazine I have ever used.  Sorry to sound like a commercial, but in the Wog "What does it do, how well does it do it?" scale, the Wilson Combat mags simply are the best.  Period.

And that's when the love affair with Wilson Combat started.

It continued on with their "drop-in" customization parts -- parts I could put on my gun myself without having to cut on the frame.  Parts I could fit with a locksmith's file and a diagram so they fit perfectly (and SAFELY -- The first grip safety I installed I took to my gunsmith to verify I'd done it right.  I had.  I told him how I did it -- that's how I got his business to work on his safes) and correctly.

Then I bought a gun that had seen better days, a Sistema 1927 Colt Licensed Copy from Argentina.  It had been the victim of a "shade tree trigger job" -- so I tore the gun down completely, replaced the sear/disconnector/grip safety spring with a brand new Wolff one (We call 'em the "finger springs" because it's a flat piece of spring steel that looks like fingers), replaced the mainspring with a new one from Wolff (Oh yeah, Wolff springs are the Best in the Business -- and guess what kind of springs Wilson Combat uses in their magazines?  Yeah.  Go ahead, guess.), then replaced the trigger (because someone had filed it down too thin at the engagement point to the sear/disconnector, making it worthless), then replaced the sear and hammer with Wilson Combat "Budget Line Hammer and Sear" which are factory-tuned to work together (thus eliminating the time-consuming and VERY delicate process of having to fit one to the other, which is what had been botched on the existing hammer and sear to make it unsafe), and putting on an Extended Slide Release (little bitty fingers, remember?)

I also ended up having to FIT the thumb safety to the sear -- another rather delicate filing operation.  But with great care, more than I'd used with the grip safety, honestly, I fitted the two parts so now they lock up like two cobalt balls in a top-quality padlock.

Of course I had my gunsmith check all my work before I fired it.

Now the 1927 is CUSTOMIZED...it looks it.  I will never get out of it what I put into it money wise, but I don't WANT to.  It's now my gun, and I took it to the range yesterday afternoon and ran the hottest loads through it, the crappiest loads through it, and the cheapest loads through it...and it ran like a champ.

But do I recommend everyone do that to his gun?  No.  Only if it needs it.

A light is a matter of taste.  The reason I have neither a light nor a laser is because I have this aversion to giving my position away by anything other than a muzzle flash which, if dealing with only one assailant, becomes a moot point after the first double-tap IF I'm on target.  Strong motivation to hit what you're aiming at, eh?

I don't like the glocks with the rail -- had a bad experience trying to draw a Factory 3rd Generation Glock 19 from a Factory Glock Sport Combat Holster.

The cross-channel of the rail snagged on the underside of the holster on the draw.

When "Factory" is incompatible with "Factory" -- my inclination is to do away with "new" and go back to a "factory" that works.  Thus, my preference for 2nd and 1st gen Glocks:  They work with "Factory."


A light makes it difficult to find a holster.  A light gives you something that can fail in the field when you most need it.  A light changes the balance of your pistol.  A light can give away your position.  And finally, if you need that light as just a light, you're pointing a FIREARM at anything you're lighting, and that can include family members, a gas can, or other things you DON'T want to be pointing that firearm at.

So now you have my position.  Your mileage may vary.

I like to subscribe to the KISS theory (Keep it Simple, Stupid) because under stress, your higher thought functions SHUT DOWN and you revert to that which you have trained to repetitive boredom and "have down pat" also known as "muscle memory" (although it really isn't -- it's a well-trained psychomotor skill) -- in other words, you "revert to your lowest form of training".

So keep it simple, for when you're STUPID.

Or you could die.  This IS deadly force we're talking about.  Think about the circumstances under which you may be deploying this for real and understand the physical and psychological parameters of those circumstances, and the condition you will be in physically and psychologically when they occur.

Dying is not a desirable option.

Not at all.

Train like you plan on living.
Equip like you plan on living.
Mentally prepare, like you plan on living.

And that means making correct training and equipment choices when you're NOT under stress, and then TESTING them under ARTIFICIAL stresses in a CONTROLLED environment so you can weed out what DOESN'T WORK.

Because the field for real is the wrong time to realize that those "customizations" just got in your way.  You won't have that realization long, because in the case of a defensive firearm, any screwup can get you dead faster.

This is why gun games such as IDPA are so useful:  They give you realistic scenarios, with the artificial stress of competition with which to test your mental skills, psychomotor skills, and your equipment, without the consequences of dying.

Take advantage of them if you can.  You will quickly find out what works for you, and what does not.

It would make me the happiest if information I gave you was enough to teach you the process by which you can help save your life.  I'm not so arrogant as to believe that's so, but that's the goal I'm shooting for (pun intended, groan now).


S
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« Reply #25 on: November 24, 2008, 01:20:10 AM »

Well, I tend to agree with Scott, LOL. I know it's really a surprise.

I like factory guns. My glocks are factory, I do not have night sights on them.

I will say I do disagree with Scott on 1 point. I think the flashlights on handguns are great. But I found a new one at a gunshow for $50 (Insight M3) so it was a steal. I used to not think much of it, but now I love it.

As far as giving away your position, I wouldn't keep the light on all of the time. I also consider the light an extended tactic as you can use it to temporarily blind someone.

As far as pointing your gun at someone trying to use the flashlight. When I use mine, I know my wife is in bed and something has made me get up to check out a noise or etc. If I put the light on it, I damned sure mean to put the gun on them to.

Now that's for pistols. For carbines I think a light should be a required accessory. If you're going to shoot any distance at night, it helps to see what you're shooting at.

I have 2 lights on my AR now. 1 is for close quarters it is a Surefire G2 LED with tape switch mounted in a VLTOR light mount. It stays on the gun perm. I can use it outdoors for up to 25 yards or so (If I used a standard g2 probably further) and this weekend at the gunshow in Smyrna, TN I picked up a Surefire Millenium weaponlight for $75 (yes $75 it is a $360 light on the SF website) and with it I can illuminate out to 100 yards or so.

Just my opinion. Your mileage may vary.
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« Reply #26 on: November 24, 2008, 01:40:09 AM »

My old man had a locker next to Suarez, I have met him and he is a good man who knows his shit.  If you are going to throw a light ON your gun(Which I do not like either) get a good one, least likely chance to fail.  However,  I like just carrying a light independent of my gun.
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« Reply #27 on: November 24, 2008, 02:46:03 AM »

Of the 4 I fired, the Glock 17 I felt I was most accurate with.

That's funny, that's why I went with a Glock.  I went with the Glock 21 which is a .45.  But whatever Glock you choose, I think you will be very happy with it.

As far as a light on handguns, I love mine.  I bought a Glock brand light, slides right on the rail, it's great.  I am in the mindset that it gives you the option to light up a target before you light up a target.  Also, as mentioned, can cause temp blindness, possibly give you a slight tactical advantage for that 1 second, and you can ID your target as hostile (or friendly) before firing.  Only problem with the light is that I can't fit my Glock in a standard holster with the light on.  They do make special holsters that can accomidate that (I think.)  But it's not really an issue, the thing slides on and off no problem, it's not a hassle to take it off to conceal and carry, and you can just throw the light in your pocket.
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« Reply #28 on: November 24, 2008, 10:39:05 AM »

If you are going to throw a light ON your gun(Which I do not like either) get a good one, least likely chance to fail.  However,  I like just carrying a light independent of my gun.

I agree with you here about buying quality, I have always said buy quality, cry once. The insight I have on my gun is a good light. It's not a surefire but it is a good light.

I carry a light independent of my gun as well. I keep a Surefire E2D LED in my pocket and a Kahr PM40 on belt every day. I keep the light on the Glock that stays in my nightstand. The only exception to this is if we go camping, then I will toss the light in my pack (as I usually wear the larger frame Glock when we're in the woods) or if we're travelling I'll keep the light with an extra mag in my suitcase... You get the idea.
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« Reply #29 on: November 24, 2008, 11:06:56 AM »

Quote
And finally, if you need that light as just a light, you're pointing a FIREARM at anything you're lighting, and that can include family members, a gas can, or other things you DON'T want to be pointing that firearm at.

Or..

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